Canada has a variety of restrictions, tests and so on, but it's perfectly manageable. Even being "randomly selected" to take another PCR test on arrival went quickly and smoothly.
Masks are worn indoors and bars and restaurants are capacity controlled with distancing. Unfortunately, this greatly reduces the amount of covers and it was enlightening to hear from restaurant and bar owners about how they're surviving with reduced numbers.
Soon, there will be a COVID pass which should provide a bigger safety net and allow for a larger capacity, but that second part is still an open question.
I started off the day with a trip to the tapas and cocktail mecca Bar Raval where I downed jamon, two orders of pan con tomate, croquettes, a mushroom tower and my favorite mainstay on the menu: fried eggplant drizzled with honey and rosemary. The fry is perfect and when it plays with the honey it gives the taste of a beignet. The rosemary adds a perfect counterpoint to the luscious discs of aubergine.
I checked in on a former The Single Table of the Year winner Alo. Unfortunately, the chef's counter is still closed, but I had a delightful tasting menu at the bar with killer cocktails. Alo continues to impress in technique and top-notch service. The opening course is a foie torchon, turned tarte. The butteriness and crunch of the tarte rounding out the elegant foie. A spectacular delivery on a dish seen the world over.
Of course, a visit to Toronto wouldn't be complete without a trip to St. Lawrence market. Although, I couldn't help but feel sad for the purveyors. What is usually a bustling center of amazing butchery, fish, cheeses, fruits and desserts was mostly deserted on my visit at lunch time. They can't survive based on the numbers I saw, but I hope I was there on an "off" day.
Carousel Bakery is famous for the peameal bacon sandwich. Maple mustard on mine please! It's just the perfect amount of salty pork on a soft and forgiving bun. Don't forget to add a Portuguese egg tart. Several vendors at the market make these and I highly encourage a taste comparison!
Finally, I headed to the hip fashion district and enjoyed great Italian interpretations at Buca. I hadn't spent time on King Street before and I was blown away with the quality of bars and restaurants. The manager came over to feel me out (this happens once in a while) because I ordered four starters and no mains. Although I would have loved some of their original pasta offerings or a pizza, I wanted to sample as much of this creative menu as I could. The highlight was MORE EGGPLANT. This eats as good as it looks.
Before calling it, a short walk to Mother provided just the wind down I needed. Inventive, thoughtful cocktails in a relaxed environment where the bartenders know all the great drinks at all the great bars in the world. Their house program of infusions and fermentation is to be envied.
Stay tuned, because another Toronto bar is poised to land on this year's The Single Table awards list.
Except for the absolute shit show in the airport trying to leave, Toronto is your nice, steady, reliable, good-influence friend who always shows you a good time and leaves you feeling satisfied. You may want to end up at an underground cock fight, but Toronto will keep you above surface and make sure you're looked after and safe.
PS - Getting poutine on this visit was a complete fail. Now I have a reason to go back.