seat T301
Paris, France
The final award for 2021 doesn't just go to a restaurant. This hyper-exclusive award signifies the best world-class experience when dining solo. It's given to a specific seat or table in a restaurant. How prestigious and pretentious!
I was graciously given this seat for two meals in four days. One for dinner and one for weekend brunch.
Let's start with the room. A gorgeous space with muted tones (think L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon without the post-modern, black-and-red hitting you in the face) that evokes instant relaxation.
And seat T301? My God. If you find yourself in Paris and you love dinner and a show, this seat is a "must." I have it ranked as my #2 chef counter experience worldwide.
Let's begin with logistics.
Immediately to your right is the pass where you will be inches from every single creation coming out of the kitchen. The Chef de Cuisine will be in front of you, and if you never get tired of hearing "service please," then this seat is for you. The cold station is just forward to the left. The hot line and prep is on the other side of the Chef de Cuisine. Pastry is to the far right and will be mostly out of view, but they come over and chat you up while you're dining. Do not be intimated about giving a quick, casual hello.
Then there's the food. Flavour and technique on full display with intention-driven dishes highlighting French cuisine with Asian influences. While I detailed my brunch experience in this post, here is a snapshot of my dinner:
Shisoleaf tempura, Lovage cream, caviar and smoked pike eggs
Refreshing green peas, ice-cold soup, Wild strawberries and jelly
Vegetal ravioles, vegetables extraction, Bauxde Provence olive oil pearls
Beef filet, soft and flavoured crust, Solferino juice
Mains come with a heaping side of tempura vegetables and they are the best I've had anywhere in the world. My new dream in life is to watch sport, drink a beer and snack on these vegetables.
Now, in full disclosure, there were a couple kinks that needed to be worked out. There was a service issue that caused an unacceptable delay at dinner. And there was a problem with a dish during brunch that was quickly corrected and that item was taken off the bill without prompting. In fact, comping the dish was completely unnecessary and the courtesy was very much appreciated.
Still, even with those minor hiccups, Pavyllon has entered The Single Table's 100 Best Restaurants Worldwide list.
I've been a follower and admirer of Yannick ever since he cooked one of the top five meals of my life at Le Meurice. That journey has taken me to STAY in Dubai twice, Alléno Paris and now Pavyllon. Talking to him when he's in residence is pure joy.
If I lived in Paris, I'd be a regular at Pavyllon, waking up in the morning and eagerly awaiting my booking. I would cross the Seine on foot, enter the dining room and be treated to world-class cooking while I soak in the surroundings.
Congratulations Pavyllon! Well done and I can't wait to return.
PREVIOUS WINNERS OF THE SINGLE TABLE OF THE YEAR
2020
Chef's counter, far left seat
Fukuoka, Japan
2019
Kitchen Counter seat #12
Toronto, Canada
To qualify for The Single Table awards, I had to visit that location in the given calendar year.