Berlin is having a food moment. Tim Raue has been wowing the scene for years, with more than a few expletives thrown in for good measure. Rene Frank leads CODA and holds the current title as best pastry chef in the world. Ernst landed on the 100 Best and is cooking for eight guests a service in what the chef calls a "weird," but outstanding restaurant. Nobelheart and Schmutzig has rocketed up the 50 Best rankings to achieve the title of highest climber. Gal Ben-Moshe is coking Middle Eastern from the heart.
But there is only one three star in Berlin and it's a shining example of what world-class, technically driven cuisine can offer.
Rutz is a high-wire act. There is so much technique and variety of ingredients on the plate, one misstep would send it crashing down to earth. Yet, this never happens. Not with a single ingredient. You can walk that wire blissfully in the clouds and place your trust in Marco Müller and his team.
Some of the breathtaking plates:
Carp with an interplay of frozen and crunchy textures before a second service of finger-licking BBQ carp ribs
dry aged carp & elder/leave/blossom
Such an unusual plating and worked perfectly to incorporate the greens with bites of succulent lamb and jus. Get a forkful of everything? Message received and appreciated.
salad and buds, "Husumer lamb"
The wilt of the greens and sour of the vinegar combined with the incredible sauce work make this beef dish a star. The treatment of the hidden, crisped marrow adds distinct depth of umami and crunch. A second service of beef heart tartar tartlette provides the perfect ending to the savoury portion of the meal.
Wagyu beef with shoots, sprouts, & herbs, vinegar
The first dessert might feature techniques you've seen before, but the intensity of the cherry flavor contrasted against the lightness of the hay ice cream is delightful. Every element gives you exactly what you need: sour, tart, sweet, crunchy, creamy
iced cherries and hay, chamomile, spruce
Service is an encyclopedia of sourcing, preparation, fermentation, wine knowledge and.... fun. Everyone in the room, guests included, look genuinely happy and relaxed.
Rutz is a very special place and it's worth hoping on a plane to go there. Even better, you're in Berlin and can try the restaurants mentioned above. But do put Rutz on your itinerary. You'll be thrilled you did.
To qualify for The Single Table awards, I had to visit that location in the given calendar year.