How do you take the very essence and soul of a restaurant, legit and deservedly crowned best in the world, transport it to Japan, and make it even better?
Welcome to MAZ and the vision of Chef Santiago Fernandez and his team, with the building blocks and ethos supplied by Mater Iniciativa.
Much like Virgilio Martinez, Pia Leon and Melena Martinez, Chef Santiago's curiosity for the discovery of ingredients, from Hokkaido to the Andes, drives this concept.
The theme of the "Vertical World," based on elevations and ecosystems, is omnipresent at both MAZ and Central. MAZ accepts 20 covers per service. For this reason alone, more time can be given to the dishes and details, which yields more intricate techniqies and experimentation.
But MAZ faces a different, and unique, challenge. How do you take meticulously-sourced ingredients from Japan, import Peruvian ingredients, use millennia-old Peruvian cooking techniques, showcase Peruvian flavours, and deliver the most technically-ambitious menu on earth that comes off as comforting and not pretentious?
You will see how in the corresponding photos. There will be minimal commentary. Mostly, because it would be impossible to recall the intricacy of the dish without failing, and that would be a disservice to the reader. But this is edge-of-your-seat cooking, and as I've said about my previous meals at Central, you will cherish ingredients that you may never have again, cooked in ways that have never been attempted.
Everyone on the floor knows their stuff and has an encyclopedic knowledge of sourching, ingredients and technique, complete with visual aides when necessary. I can't imagine what the pre-brief is like on a new dish.
A note before we begin. I alternated between alcohol and non-alcoholic pairings. The investment, research and creativity in the non-alcoholic pairings is substantial and also the best in the world. Even greater heights and imagination than Geranium or Maaemo.
Let's start.
MARINE REEF -5MBSL (meters below sea level)
Placed in front of the diner, a coconut ricotta to refresh the palate.
FIELDS IN THE COAST 18 MASL
A scenescape is presented with each dish. Here, the flavours of anticucho are buried as a hidden treasure.
COLD SEA WATER -10MBSL
EXTREME ALTITUDE 4150 MASL
Shaved deer heart (seen on the left) and grains, also to mimic the style of anticucho.
ANDEAN FOOTHILLS 1825 MASL
OCEAN HAZE -20 MBSL
Octopus and tubers. The non-alcoholic beverage on the right is like an ice cube in the shape of a square honeycomb. The green "dots" change the flavour and complexity of the drink the more you swirl it.
WOODS IN THE HIGHLANDS 3270 MASL
What comes out of the cooking vessel once it's opened? Not the potato I was expecting. Bamboo shoot, and for maybe six weeks while in season. This is a huge shock in the meal as it's carved table side and prepared with Peruvian sauces. Chef says they do use potato, sometimes corn, whatever the bounty brings them. The bamboo shoot is the perfect canvas for these sauces.
To the right, 48-hour short rib, dehydrated mushroom sticks and truffle. This main is an absolute show stopper.
HIGH JUNGLE RAIN FOREST 750 MASL
To the right is something resembling a custard filled bombaloni. I'm not sure of the Peruvian influence, but it's slutty and delicious. I messed this one up, took a flaming half bite and burned my mouth while the filling dropped out. Still worth it.
The counterpoint, refreshing berries including acai. The work on this fruit was meticulous and chilled to the perfect temperature after the hot first dessert.
AMAZONIA 840 MASL
Central is quite famous for its preparations of cacao and using all parts of the fruit from the tree. MAZ is no different. What blew me away was an integration of Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to create six preparations that were COMPLETELY different than the ones I had at Central just four months earlier. I expected a "cacao greatest hits." What I got were six new inventions, each with contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures.
I also got to try some cacao vinegar. Why does this exist? Apparently to act as a digestif. It's crazy delicious like an acid bomb with a hint of cacao and I'm going to seek out a bottle.
Fun fact, the card on the left was painted by Virgilio's mother.
Chef Santiago on the right of the photo with his small and dedicated team.
MAZ will never stop learning, never stop sourcing, never stop experimenting, never stop discovering, which makes it one of the most thrilling restaurants in the world, if not the best.
The Single Table pays in full for all meals it posts about.