Vienna
prelude to apricot with daylily, chocolate and several types of comb honey
Let me start off by saying this isn't fair. To qualify for an award from The Single Table, I had to visit that restaurant in a given calendar year. Steirereck could get this award from me any year, but this is the first year since The Single Table launched that I dined at Steirereck. Still with me? Then 50 Best had to go and give them the Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award for 2021.
One award goes behind the host stand. This is not that award.
No matter. What follows is my love letter to Steirereck:
Dear Birgit, Heinz, Reitbauer family and Steirereck family,
I have never felt as comfortable, as appreciated, have been captivated by technique and ingredients as when I'm in your dining room. I've flown across an ocean, three times, just to remind myself how exquisite service and cuisine can be. You've seen me at dinner service and lunch service the next day.
And yet, I'm not special. Everyone is special to you.
Your literal, shiny temple of gastronomy is so unpretentious that the warmth of your family always comes through. Your daughter has bounced from table-to-table giving a wave and a smile. Birgit, somehow, can be in two places at once and has eyes on everything. If something isn't perfect, it will be soon enough. Heinz has an esoteric knowledge of ingredients from his homeland and each and every ingredient card is a prized treasure in my collection.
The extended family: the sommeliers, the meierei cart, the bread cart.... The teams takes such pride in their products and presentation. They're captivating and inspiring.
Every visit comes with a new surprise, elevating the concept. Take the photo above. A "beehive" is rolled from table-to-table. Inside are four honeycombs, each with very different composition and flavours. You're asked for a preference, and in my case, you ask for a sample of everything with no shame.... and of course they are more than happy to oblige. Oh, did I forget? As the hive rolls by, there's a low, barely audible hum of bees buzzing. It's a showstopper. It's the perfect, little details that make Steirereck what it is.
Even though I want to be at my usual table this very instant, I may never get to Vienna again. Life just works that way.
I am so appreciative of your dedication and I take comfort knowing that every guest who graces your door will get the Steirereck treatment.
With deepest gratitude,
The Single Table
To qualify for The Single Table awards, I had to visit that location in the given calendar year.