When Kate and Wills gave their first interview after becoming engaged, he said,
We're like sort of ducks, very calm on the surface with little feet going under the water.
This is how I imagine the best restaurants in the world are run. A Herculean undertaking to make service look effortless.
Core pulls it off: dedication and meticulous attention to detail without looking robotic or phony. The nerve!
Clare Smyth's actual fingerprint as snacks are served.
The pre-shift meeting would probably give me goosebumps. But when the curtain is raised, you will be looked after and treated as a friend-of-the-house first and a paying customer second. Everyone is VIP. If you're an engaged guest, a table touch can last minutes without angst or hurriedness from the staff. If you prefer not to be bothered, there's a lighter touch given to those tables.
As a single diner, I'm always given an ample corner table so I can view the room's buzz. A delicate ballet of suited staff juxtaposed with the hum of classic rock. Vintage travel guides are on my table which I leaf through during the meal. Someone might have placed an Escoffier cookbook there as well.
This is a service award, but I I would be remiss if I did not mention the exceptional, thematic cooking from Clare Smyth and Head Chef Jonny Bone. Every element of every dish is well-intentioned, comforting and delicious.
Even though this is a 2019 award, I will reach back to a 2018 memory. I was at Core the day after Joel Robuchon's passing. While making small talk with a French member of staff (there are several), I mentioned how I went to L'Atelier the night before just to have a glass of champagne, celebrate Robuchon's legacy and fondly remember meals across the globe.
When my main came out, I was met with this:
A perfect venison dish with a cup of Robuchon pomme puree. Speechless.
My printed menu at the end of the evening included the following:
Service culture is all about the "feeling" a guest gets. Even cynical jerks such as myself still want the warm fuzzies. Core hits every note and delivers every time.
To qualify for The Single Table awards, I had to visit that location in the given calendar year.