Paris is as crowded, noisy, gritty and the traffic is as bad as ever.... and I wouldn't change a thing.
Where else can you have a conversation with Yannick Alleno, Guy Savoy and Kei Kobayashi in successive days?
Let's start with Chef Alleno. Even though his 3* wasn't open yet, I enjoyed two meals at 1* Pavyllon. If you're thinking, hmmmmmm..... this concept feels a lot like a grown up L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, you're not alone. Instead of pomme puree, you get tempura vegetables and a dipping sauce. In fact, I broached the subject with Chef and he told me how Robuchon was an inspiration not only in cooking but in business. Hint -- look for the Pavyllon brand to start a quest for world domination in the future.
Chef is also exploring the world of sugar-free pastries and also presented me with a tasting board of different fruits which ranged from pure sweetness (pineapple) to sweet-sour (nectarine). I sense a retail operation may also be on the horizon utilizing this technique.
not a cheese board...
While there were hiccups during these meals in both food and service, the positives far outweighed the negatives. When the kinks get worked out, this could get to a 2* level.
For your viewing pleasure: the weekend brunch. The most delicious calories you could possibly consume. Thank God for the salmon to cleanse the palate.
When your first course is croissant, pain au chocolate, baguette, marble cake sliced table side, salted butter, chocolate spread, maple syrup and homemade jam... you just kind of go speechless.
That's one hell of a weekend brunch tasting menu! You could order less, but why???
Dining at 3* Kei was an experience if only for the couple behind me. They started off at another table, but apparently that wasn't good enough for them.
When the floor manager introduced the tasting menu concept, the "gentleman" said, "We want the best! But no meat." Fair enough. Considering the "best" included an A5 Waygu supplement, the kitchen would have to improvise. This instruction was clearly not conveyed to the restaurant before arrival.
After the delivery of the third course, the server approached the table and asked, "Would you like some more butter for your bread?"
The seated gas bag of entitlement scowled, "No! I want caviar."
Interesting choice for a multigrain.
So the couple sat there and let their food die for approximately ten minutes while the kitchen had to scurry to arrange a delicate and beautiful caviar presentation with a huge tin on ice. They would not touch their food until caviar arrived for their bread.
After this grand display had concluded and all were satisfied, the diner's companion weighed in.
With a weak-kneed, shaky voice full of panic she said, "this is fish eggs?"
I briefly choked on still water which prevented me from laughing so hysterically all eyes would have been on me.
Anywho.... here's a picture of a tender miso squab with cherry, almond and a succulent sauce.
Finally, I'd like to introduce you to Pertinence, a 1* restaurant that will do 8-16 covers per service. It's a two chef operation covering both the front and back of house. If you've read this blog before, you know I seek out Japanese chefs using French technique and ingredients. He's Japanese. She's Malaysian. Together they are one hell of a duo. The attentiveness and care to each guest, despite there only being two people cooking, serving and offering wine is truly an achievement. Like a fancy ryokan with great French food. That the menu is ambitious is even better.
Here's a gorgeous beef tartar with heat from tobasco being cooled with tomato sorbet. Then you get the crunch of the potato sticks and it's just an elevated classique preparation. I can also see this restaurant getting to 2* over time.
I know you've probably never heard of this restaurant, but I'm telling you, go and enjoy.
I have a feeling Paris is going to take up a lot of space on The Single Table 2021 awards list. The bar culture may have even caught up to London! You'll just have to wait until December to find out.
Masks were mandatory indoors. Going back to wearing a mask between the table and toilet was an adjustment, but one I certainly don't mind. For reference, the above experiences happened before France required a corona pass to enter restaurants.