Oh shit.
Just when I go and spout off about Lima, along comes Barcelona. I may have backed myself in to a corner.
THE SINGLE TABLE'S BARCELONA LINEUP
Disfrutar - World's #2
Cocina Hermanos Torres ***
ABaC ***
SIPS - World's #1 Bar
Paradiso - World's #4 Bar
After 26 courses and a four-hour high-wire act of brilliant gastronomy, Chef was still at the pass surveying the scene. Seriously, who still does that these days? The herb plate with jelly underneath was so simple, satisfying and offered a contrast of flavours.... grassy, peppery, sweet, bitter, lemony. And form there, we take a rocket ship to flavour country (trademark pending). There's some serious cooking going on here, even though this was the "classic" menu. But the signature dish of puffed, I want to say, brioche, with egg yolk inside that then gets poured in to the egg shell and combined with mushroom jelly is absolutely perfect.
(The photos are in reverse order of presentation)
Cocina Hermanos Torres is a kitchen in the middle of a converted warehouse with tables around it so everything is on display. After meeting the twin brothers and being given a special tour of the house, and I mean everything, I knew this was going to be a special and luxurious lunch. The restaurant recently earned its third star, and if you look at the kicks of team members, they're happy to show it off. The highlight was an onion soup bathed in truffle after breaking a tuile over it that resembles the street tiles in Barcelona. Close was a deceptively simple pea dish with fried bread and an opening course of game consomé. No delicate flavours to start the meal here! Let's get it on!
(The photos are in reverse order of presentation)
Last on this extravaganza was my third visit to ABaC, and first since it earned its third star. I fell in love with Jordi Cruz's cooking during my first visit in 2012. It's only gotten more inventive and playful and time has gone on. Snacks are served in the kitchen and luckily I got a bite of my favourite dish, the foie and mole taco. You'll see the full dish on the home page of this site, but some lucky diners still get it as a snack. Of course there's tableside sous vide and the liquid nitrogen budget must be through the roof. But, it tells a cohesive story throughout the menu presentation. The tomato plate, different from my last visit, showcases the vegetable and its umami strength. The jamon, integrated in to chicharron, is the kind of slutty decadence you want from a three star.
(The photos are, mostly, in reverse order of presentation)
Bar time. I was beaming with pride getting to see Simone at his bar SIPS, which is currently ranked #1 in the world. I hadn't seen him since the Artesian days. Even though he wouldn't know who I am, I certainly remember him and his place in history setting the bar world on fire with Alex.
SIPS is communal, wonderful, and you'll make new friends before the night is over. But what lays in the back room.... and I mean back room (You'll know it when you eventually arrive) might change the Industry yet again. Simone, this time him beaming with pride, took me on a private tour of Esencia. Don't call it a bar-within-a-bar. I hate that term. Esencia is a cocktail tasting-menu format open three nights a week. There are no repeats from the front bar. Unfortunately, the night of my visit was an off day, and there was no room in my schedule to come back. But, this is the bar I dream about at night and I can't wait to experience it.
Paradiso, the current #4 bar in the world, is a little mix of fuck-you-punk-but-we-don't-take-ourselves-too-seriously-so-have-fun-with-it. Get your drink on and save room for the pastrami. You heard that right. The presentations are beautiful showstoppers and the liquid balance is just as good. You may not be able to order one of everything, but keep a keen eye on the bar so you can see everything that goes out.
Thank you Barcelona! I love you, The Single Table
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