Chef Adam Handling recently received an MBE. Perhaps, two stars should follow it.
I was skeptical about Frog going in. Whenever I see a bunch of supplemental courses on the menu, or, in my restaurant research, I see all the chairs on the floor are turned facing the open kitchen, as if to scream in desperation, "HEY! LOOK AT ME!," things usually go off the rails.
Fear not.
This was damn good cooking with Head Chef Cleverson Cordeiro at the helm, and a friendly, relaxed floor team who really knows its wine. The products, the best of British and Scottish produce and proteins, are a delight when cooked to perfection and not over-fussed.
Handy tip: There's a glass of sparkling included with the wine parings. Even though Adam's Blanc de Blancs is wonderful, order a cocktail or go straight to the pairing.
There is a single seat at the Chef's Counter which is a little off to the side at the pass through. Luckily, I was given a single seat, where they could have easily booked a pair, right in front of the pass.
It was special to see a restaurant booming at 5pm on a Monday night in Covent Garden.
After snacks and a first course, we begin with bread and chicken liver butter. And yes, don't let the beet complexion fool you. It is indeed silky, addictive chicken liver butter.
followed by the first fish course of the evening with a delectable play of smoked chili and citrus
The main, Cornish lamb. Lamb seems to be on every London tasting menu in summer. What isn't on any menu is a glazed haggis lollipop/fritter that was mouthwatering. The second service, or added preparation, took this dish from excellent to extraordinary.
A supplement cheese course of eastwood, cherry bakewell and truffle honey. I'm a sucker for a composed cheese course that shows elegance and is downright delicious.
A showstopping London honey (can't get enough of the good stuff), verbena and Cornish lemon dessert.
As I ran out of time with my booking, petit fours were expertly transferred to the basement Eve Bar.
As I alluded to earlier, this is not a cheap endeavour, especially if you take the bite on all the supplements. Or in my case, ordered an extra glass of sparkling and ended the night savouring cocktails at Eve Bar after dinner. However, I felt like I was paying for a two-star meal and a two-star experience. With any sense, that honour will be bestowed upon Frog soon.
The Single Table pays in full for all meals it posts about.