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Writer's pictureTheSingleTable

Copenhagen 2021

After 12 hours of travel with added stress due to COVID requirements, there's really only one thing to do to get adjusted after landing in Copenhagen.... Morning TACOS AND MARGS at Hija de Sanchez.

These beauties are just.... perfect. Vibrant, acidic, crunchy with depth of flavour. On my last visit to Copenhagen, there was an "instruction" board on what a taco is and how to eat it. Now, Rosia Sanchez has an empire with multiple locations and concepts. If you're thinking, why would I go to Copenhagen to eat a taco? Eat there and then come back to me with your thoughts.


The scene in Copenhagen was surprisingly normal. Except for showing a vaccine certificate upon entry, you'd hardly notice the difference. So it was interesting to see who was firing on all cylinders when it came to service culture.


On point was world number two Geranium. I have mixed emotions about this visit. On one hand, service during the meal was note perfect. Every member of the team was engaging with effortless (as I've described before, the best hospitality "looks" effortless, but is only achieved with true training and care) and relaxed service. On the other hand, there were a lot of "greatest hits" in this menu and one substitution for a food intolerance was an afterthought, almost insulting. A follow up with the restaurant post-meal was largely ignored.


The highlight was a version of ollebrod with milk, geranium and rhubarb which needed a thorough explanation for a foreigner. Digging through this dessert was a pure delight, with this subtle, almost gingerbread taste coming through. A true elevation of a leftover bread and beer.


I love Geranium, and if this was my first visit, I'd be knocked out. However, this was a return visit and I would have liked to see a little more push in the menu.

The best surprise came from Marchal, a well-established restaurant I regret missing on my last trip. While I won't go in to the meal in detail, I can see why everyone raves about the gougeres. Perfect pillows with comte, truffle cream and a slice of truffle on top. BETTER than any gougere I had in Paris this trip, including at a 3* restaurant. Seriously, that good. Front-of-house is spectacular and exactly what you'd expect from a restaurant of this caliber.


I'm told the gougere record is 31 orders. I only managed two. Why did I order a bottle of read instead of a glass of champagne? Rookie mistake.


There were several "exhale moments" in Copenhagen that I hadn't experienced in nearly 18 months. Just the practice of not wearing a mask brings a comfort level. But not seeing anyone wear a mask opposite you is jarring. I felt safe knowing restaurants were checking vaccinations/passes at the door. I was surprised how tense I was before seating and just how relaxed I felt at the table. It made me appreciate and enjoy the experience when I didn't know what to expect or how I would feel.



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