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Writer's pictureTheSingleTable

Akoko (London) - Single Table Experience

The pre-dessert was a watermelon granita with scotch bonnet pepper.


That's what I'm talking about! Bold, unfamiliar, tantalizing flavours.


After being given the best seat in the house at Akoko, I got a two-hour education on West African cuisine that left me longing, and searching, for more in the best possible way.

The prime Chef's Counter seat at Akoko. Unfortunately, there were too many eyes on me to nick the joloff rice.


First, let's talk about the team on the floor. They are genuinely and enthusiastically proud about Akoko and happily explain spices, origins and anything else you want to know. That they put up with my ongoing questions and conversation earned them a medal in patience.


My knowledge about, and access to, West African cuisine is embarrassingly limited. I know some of the flavours, ingredients and cooking techniques, along with the tortured and shameful history, of how Gullah Geechee cuisine spread beyond Africa.


But in total, this was nothing like I'd had before in a single meal.


Let's begin with the gorgeously-lacquered mackerel with a hint of heat while the steamed cake, containing peppers was actually a counter point to cool the palate but also keep it engaged.

Monkfish with griolles and ayamase stew. Delicate fish exploding with flavours from under the fish.

A supplement course of plantain tatale (sub blini) with caviar and goat cashew cream (sub creme fraiche). The tatale reminded me of a johnnycake or arapea, except with plantain instead of corn. Why have we not being doing this all along? Sweet and salty. A blini will never look the same. Personally, I think this a one-time order. It's inventive and delicious. But with the price tag attached at 35 pounds, I wouldn't go back for seconds.

Beef and joloff rice. Wow. I was surprised at the crunch of the joloff rice. It definitely had more "crispy" bits than other versions I've had. The treatment of the purple carrot is just spectacular.

The best dish of the night. Ox tongue, bone marrow and peanut. Served syua style. My only complaint, and I'm glad they didn't throw me out, I would have LOVED to make this in to a sandwich. This is the best tongue I've ever had. I watched the grill all night and saw the loving care they took towards this dish. The spices on it formed this perfect crust and caramelization around the tongue.

We're putting peppers in our pre-dessert. Deal with it.

Chocolate and coffee to round out an exceptional meal.

The Akoko pairing includes wine, cocktails and a porter for that magnificent ox tongue. Go for that over the traditional wine pairing, which is actually more expensive. They've sourced some really cool stuff and the somms are really knowledgeable about their products.


I can't wait until the next time class is in session and I get another education, not to mention a delicious meal. Until then, I'm going to have to source some gambian stew, jolloff rice, and expand my food universe. all thanks to the wonderful team at Akoko.


The Single Table pays in full for all meals it posts about.



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