With careful consideration and planning, I decided to visit an old favourite to celebrate starred meal number 200. While the decor at Arpège has changed since COVID, the pleasure of Alain Passard's cuisine has not.
There are fewer tables in the dining room. There's a mural painted on one of the walls to bring the outside inside. This also speaks to the guest chairs, which would be appropriate at a posh garden party. Another touch of bringing the garden to you.
The last time I diner there, the kitchen threw everything at me. I mean e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g. There were four mains alone. This time, I asked for just a little restrain, and then of course ordered an extra course. Quel dommage!
There was a big production at the next table who ordered the canard et poulet, a Passard specialty of sewing together a duck and chicken with a liver sauce. Don't ask me how they cook at the same time and temperature. Chef didn't quite understand my question, so we'll leave it as a mystery for the ages (even though the recipe is online).
My server told me about the dish, it's history, and made a point off asking one of the sous to bring by the franken-bird and show it to me before carving.
Well now you've just sold the dish. I asked politely, if there was enough left for another serving, could they kindly serve me the dish and supplement the bill.
After checking with the kitchen, the answer was, "but of course" and you will see the picture below.
It was wonderful to see Alain again. I think his English is better than he lets on. I want to talk about technique, and he wants to talk about the salted butter. But the wattage of his smile lights up the entire room. It's obvious this legend is still having fun and enjoying his guests, many of whom were regulars that day. He doesn't just do table touches. He pulls up a chair for a proper catch up, regular or not.
The menu below showcased some classics (egg sabayon with maple, beet tartar) and whatever ingredients spoke to the chefs on the day. Every service is a new adventure.
What a wonderful way to spend a 200th starred meal.
Chef Alain Passard admiring a specialty cake made for a six top.
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